Companionship

How to meet our rabbits’ need for companionship

 

The importance of companionship for rabbits

Our responsibilities

Problems associated with keeping a solitary rabbit

 

The importance of companionship for rabbits

 

Wild rabbits

Wild European rabbits, our pet rabbits’ ancestors, live in large communities and are highly social animals. As Winnie the Pooh says:

"If I know anything about anything... Rabbit means Company."

Rabbits dig extensive warrens for shelter, and the size of warren usually indicates the size of their colony. One warren may be used by several social groups of rabbits, with the size of each group ranging from a pair to around 30 individuals. Rabbits are highly territorial – each social group protects its section of the warren, and the territory is defended against rabbits from outside the colony. As a deterrent, territory is marked with secretions from the scent glands under rabbits’ chins, and with droppings, which are marked with scent from rabbits’ anal glands and deposited in ‘dunghills’ within favourite feeding areas. If interlopers are undeterred, rabbits will fight them off.

Rabbits maintain a complex social hierarchy. Within a group, there are dominant males and dominant females. The dominant rabbits have first choice of food and shelter, and dominant bucks usually mate with dominant does – the dominant does are generally larger, and their kits have a longer lifespan. Subordinate rabbits often have a shorter lifespan, because of reduced access to food and shelter, and stress due to aggression from the dominant rabbits.  

Wild rabbits shelter in their warren, keeping their body temperatures regulated as they rest together. They spend most of their waking hours (usually the hours around dawn and dusk) grazing and foraging in their social groups, with some rabbits always on the lookout for danger, as others eat. If danger is detected, they will thump to warn other rabbits, and if they need to run to a bolthole, will show the white underside of their tail to signal danger.

Rabbits are a prey species for many creatures, but they usually outbreed the consumption needs of predators, as they are such prolific breeders:

·      They can breed at any time of year.

·      They are sexually mature at 3-4 months old.

·      Does have a short gestation period of around a month.

·      Litter size is usually 4-8 kits.

·      Does can become pregnant again within hours of giving birth.

This is why it’s so important to ensure baby domestic rabbits are sexed properly, and that all rabbits are neutered!

Our pet rabbits

 

Just like their wild counterparts, our pet rabbits thrive in the company of other rabbits. It’s important that we learn about the wild rabbit’s lifestyle so we can appreciate the ways in which rabbits benefit from living in compatible pairs or groups including:

·       Vigilance – our rabbits have retained their prey creature instincts, and often find it easier to relax if there’s another set of bunny eyes looking out for danger. Research has shown that bonded pet rabbits are more active, and spend more time grazing and exhibiting other normal behaviours, whereas a solitary rabbit will spend more of its time alert for danger.

·       Warmth – for a rabbit’s comfort, nothing can compare with snuggling up to another rabbit.

·       Grooming – rabbits benefit from having another rabbit to help them groom, and it’s especially helpful for elderly rabbits who may struggle to groom themselves.

·       Increased hay/grass consumption – A rabbit will be encouraged to eat hay/grass if a companion is also enjoying it, which, of course, has many health benefits.

In fact, studies have shown that rabbits value the companionship of other rabbits as highly as they value food, and that they will take extreme measures just to have another rabbit within their sight. See the RWAF page on companionship for a list of studies.

Our responsibilities

If we are responsible for a rabbit, we must ensure that “any need it has to be housed with, or apart from, other animals” is met (the fourth Welfare Need listed under the Animal Welfare Act, 2006). For rabbits, this means providing at least one suitable rabbit companion. However, it’s not straightforward.

The problem

Although a single pet rabbit will crave the company of another rabbit, we cannot simply place a new rabbit companion with them because: 

·       Rabbits are territorial: Rabbits fight to defend their territory against interlopers – a new rabbit will be seen as a threat, and the rabbits are likely to fight for the territory.

·       Rabbits observe a social hierarchy: Rabbits need an opportunity to establish their hierarchy before they can live peacefully together, which may involve fighting.

In the wild, a rabbit fight is a natural way to reinforce territory and maintain social hierarchy. The rabbits have opportunity to retreat, to avoid serious harm. However, our rabbits have less space, so if aggression escalates to a full fight, it can be extremely dangerous.

What is bonding?

 

‘Bonding’ is the word used to describe the process of assisting rabbits to form a close relationship, so they can live together happily and safely. However, it’s a complex process, and is often stressful for rabbits and for owners!

When it comes to choosing a companion for your rabbit, your rabbit is the best judge. Apart from making sure both rabbits are neutered, there is no key to finding the best partner. Many believe the best combination for an easy bond is a neutered male and neutered female, but two neutered males or two neutered females can also live happily together. Age and size do not matter – a younger companion often brings a new lease of life to a senior bunny. Litter mates often make great companions, but some fall out as they mature.

Note that guinea pigs are not suitable companions for rabbits – they have different dietary requirements, different methods of communication, and there are health risks (rabbits’ hind legs can cause serious injury to guinea pigs, and rabbits carry Bordetella, which can cause respiratory disease in guinea pigs).

There’s no perfect, infallible way to bond rabbits, and it can be confusing to read the many contradictory recommendations – even experienced, reputable rescues vary in the bonding methods they use. It’s important to remember that different methods work for different rabbits (and for their owners). The main debate seems to concern the size of the bonding pen used to introduce the rabbits, which varies from a washing basket to a whole room. Another choice is whether to attempt 24/7 bonding, or bond for short periods of time each day.

·      24/7: Rabbits are introduced in a bonding pen and stay there (unless it’s obvious they will never be friends), until they are bonded. The bonding pen is small to start with, and its size is gradually increased as the rabbits start to bond. This requires 24/7 supervision, so although it can be a quicker method, it’s not suitable for everyone. It also requires an understanding of the rabbits’ personalities, to know whether they are likely to get along, before they are placed together.

·      Short periods: Rabbits to be bonded live in side-by-side enclosures, with owners swapping their items (e.g., litter trays) so rabbits grow accustomed to one another. They are placed together in a bonding pen for only short periods each day, increasing in time, until they are happy together. Again, the pen is increased in size if the rabbits’ behaviour is positive. This can take longer, as they may wish to re-establish their hierarchy each time they are placed in the bonding pen, but is better for people who cannot supervise 24/7, or are not experienced enough to predict whether rabbits are likely to fight.

Bonding principles

From our research, and from our own experience, we believe there are some fundamentals that increase the chance of success:

·       Prepare – Read as widely as possible about bonding, and watch videos, to make an informed choice on the best technique for you and your rabbits. The RWAF offers advice on its website – see bonding page– and in publications. We found this video on the Rabbit Awareness Week (RAW) Facebook page, by Wood Green Animal Shelter, extremely useful.

·       Be patient – It takes time for rabbits to work out their hierarchy and become friends, usually from between a couple of weeks to a couple of months, and so moving too fast (e.g. expanding the rabbits’ space before they are ready) can be counter-productive. 

·       Ensure rabbits are neutered – This is essential – as mentioned above, rabbits are prolific breeders. Also, neutering will reduce the likelihood of territorial aggression. If recently neutered, wait a few weeks before attempting to bond. Pet shops are notorious for mis-sexing rabbits, so always check with a vet if you buy a rabbit.

·       Choose a neutral area for bonding – The rabbits need to be in unknown territory, so they have no reason to defend it. It should be in an area which can be left in situ, not an area that causes you inconvenience, thus increasing the pressure to move the bonding process too fast.

·       Create a small bonding pen, add nothing except hay and water – The rabbits need to be in unfamiliar, sparse territory, so they have no reason to defend it or items within it. Placed together in this foreign area, out of their comfort zone, they will start to explore, gradually becoming more confident with the environment, whilst also getting to know each other. Once at ease together, the space can be increased, and litter trays added without triggering territorial aggression. Opinions vary as to the best size – some people use a very small area whereas others recommend a larger area. The important factor is that it is small enough that the rabbits focus on getting to know each another, without being distracted by wandering off to explore, or able to completely avoid interaction. 

·       Ensure full supervision – It’s important to recognise aggression, and intervene to prevent injury (wear thick gloves, and use a dangled towel or a soft-edged dustpan for separating them). It requires your full attention – if time is limited or there are distractions, it’s best to postpone bonding.

·       Don’t be too quick to intervene – Knowing when to intervene is critical. It’s easy to worry that a small nip or chase will escalate into a fight, causing serious injury, and ruining the chance of a bond. However, certain interactions are required to establish their hierarchy which is integral to bonding and stopping them too soon will disrupt the process. Some chasing, mounting, and nipping must be allowed so they can work out who is the dominant and who is the submissive rabbit. It’s a tricky balance – supervision must be at a distance which doesn’t interfere but is close enough to prevent injury.

·       Recognise body language – This is essential, not only to know when to intervene to prevent aggressive behaviour escalating into a fight, but also to know when the bond is progressing well enough for space to be increased.

o   Neutral: These can be allowed to continue –
Ignoring one another; short chases without retaliation; nips (even with some fur pulling); mounting (but remove a male who mounts a female’s head in case he is injured!); lowering head to request grooming; leaving droppings/urinating. 

o   Positive: Signs that they are becoming friends, and that bonding area could be increased –
Relaxing, especially lying down near one another; grooming themselves, or one another – this is an excellent sign; mirroring (copying each another’s actions, e.g., grooming, or nibbling hay).

o   Negative: Stop these behaviours – distraction may be sufficient, or they may require separation –
Growling; lunging with open mouth; raised tail with ears back; one rabbit turning on the one who is chasing; and ‘bunny tornado’ – rapidly and tightly circling each other is very serious aggression. 

·       Check regularly for any injuries to the rabbits – Remember that rabbits hide any weakness, so it might not be obvious if they’ve been hurt.

·       Be kind – Don’t use stress bonding methods – meeting a new rabbit is already stressful enough for a bunny. Although the bonding process is more likely to succeed if the rabbits feel ill-at-ease in a neutral territory, they should not be forced to feel scared. Putting the rabbits together in a stressful situation, such as a car journey, so that they seek comfort from one another may appear to help them become friends, but it’s cruel to put them under such strain. Just as we rarely form lasting friendships with the strangers we met in a stressful situation (e.g. a broken-down lift), rabbits bonded through stress won’t necessarily form a strong relationship.

·       Once bonded, do not separate – If separated, even for a vet appointment, there is a risk the bond may be broken. It’s better to take them together, which also helps them both to feel less stressed and aids recovery in the unwell rabbit. If they do have to be separated, reunite them carefully – they may need to be placed into a smaller area for a while, to re-bond them.

·       Don’t give up on finding a friend for a rabbit – Very few rabbits are impossible to bond – sometimes it just takes several attempts, and a willingness to adapt techniques, to find a suitable partner. Rabbit-based bonding is the kindest method – rabbits know who they want as their friends, and this is the advantage of taking rabbits to a rescue for bonding, as they have a choice of potential friends. Alternatively, adopt on the condition the rabbit can return to the rescue if the bond fails – in this case, finding a different partner will be the kindest option for both.

Click here to find out how Ebony and Snoop became friends.

Ensuring all Welfare Needs are met

To meet our rabbits’ need to be housed with our rabbits, we must also provide for our rabbits’ other four Welfare Needs:

·      Environment:

o   Providing a suitable, spacious home will enable rabbits to spend time together or time apart during the day, as they choose.

·      Diet:

o   Providing a suitable diet, consisting mostly of hay/grass, will enable rabbits to spend time together eating.

o   Scatter-feeding and hiding food will keep them occupied and happy, and ensure every rabbit has access to food, rather than a dominant rabbit eating everything from a bowl.

·      Behaviour patterns:

o   Providing enrichment items and space will enable both rabbits to perform their normal behaviours, together or apart, as, and when they choose.

o   If a rabbit is kept alone, providing extra enrichment will reduce the risk of boredom or depression (often associated with a rabbit being singly housed).

·      Healthcare:

o   Ensuring all rabbits are neutered enables male and female rabbits to live together without reproducing, and reduces the risk of aggressive behaviour between same-sex rabbits.

o   Keeping bonded rabbits together for vet visits or hospitalisation can reduce stress and help with recovery for a rabbit patient.  

Problems associated with keeping a solitary rabbit

Companionship is important for rabbits’ health and wellbeing. Many rabbits living as solitary pets suffer physical and mental health problems, for example:

·      Problems related to difficulty in cleaning certain parts of the body – eg. eye problems, infections. Mutual grooming between rabbits kept in pairs/groups may help to reduce risk of such problems, and is also enjoyable for rabbits.

·      Reduced body temperature – solitary rabbits kept outside may suffer over winter. A companion helps rabbits to regulate body temperature, keeping them warmer in cold temperatures.

·      Poor mental health (eg. anxiety, stress, depression) – as prey animals, rabbits kept alone may feel the need to be more alert, without an extra set of eyes to keep watch, and may suffer more in stressful situations (eg. vet trips). Rabbits feel more secure if they have a companion to share vigilance behaviours, and, consequently, feel able to perform normal behaviours at ease, whereas they are likely to be less active, and may become depressed and frustrated, if solitary.

·      Abnormal behaviours – rabbits kept alone may develop abnormal behaviours, due to anxiety, frustration, or stress. For example, loneliness can cause frustration, stress, and boredom, leading to repetitive behaviours, destructiveness, over-grooming or fur-pulling, and even gut stasis.

Rabbits kept alone may be at higher risk of developing common health problems, including:

·      Obesity

·      Gut Stasis

·      Fly Strike

·      Dental disease

When a companion dies, the surviving rabbit may grieve. This can cause depression-like behaviour – the rabbit may behave differently, become withdrawn, have reduced appetite, or even become aggressive. It’s likely that a surviving rabbit will be ready to accept a new companion far sooner than we might feel ready, so it’s important to find a compatible partner as soon as possible.

Is it poor welfare to keep a solitary rabbit?

The necessity of rabbit companionship is a controversial topic. Many rabbits are housed alone simply because their owners are unaware of the importance of companionship for rabbits. Others are kept singly indoors, with little attention from their owners but an assumption that a rabbit won’t be lonely if living in a home in the presence of people and other animals. These situations can cause mental and physical health problems for the single rabbit.

However, there are reasons why people might not be able to provide a rabbit companion for their pet rabbit, even though they realise having a single rabbit is not optimal. If a rabbit is kept alone, it’s our responsibility to provide as much human interaction as possible – it’s usually easier to spend more time with a houserabbit than with a rabbit kept outdoors. It’s also important to provide extra enrichment, and some singly housed rabbits enjoy the comfort of a soft toy – ensure they don’t chew their fabric companion!

Our first two rabbits, Lupin then Charlie, were kept singly, and our third – Neroli – was kept singly for most of her life, although she shared her home with Rosie (without a proper bond) for two of her ten years. We spent many hours with each of them (there was usually one of us at home, and they never appeared to be lonely or depressed. But since seeing the incredible bond between our next rabbits, Mabel and Dijon, we realise how much another rabbit can offer, in terms of companionship, compared to even the most attentive human. A solitary rabbit will value human companionship, but it’s unlikely that a human will be able to stay with a rabbit (or even within sight) 24/7, so, ideally, it’s best to provide a rabbit companion. It’s also enjoyable for us, as their guardians, to witness rabbits interacting and behaving naturally together!