Checking your rabbits’ health at home
The importance of home health checks
Grooming rabbits and trimming their nails
The importance of home health checks
Rabbits are complex and fragile creatures. Delay in treating a health problem can be critical, but there’s a problem: as prey creatures, rabbits have evolved to conceal any signs of pain, suffering, injury, or disease, because visible weaknesses make them vulnerable to attack. As a result, we may not detect a health problem, until it’s reached a point where a rabbit can no longer hide it – and by then it could be beyond treatment. So, it’s extremely important to check rabbits regularly, otherwise we’re unlikely to know when something’s not right.
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It’s important to spend time with our rabbits. |
We have a responsibility to spend time with our rabbits every day, so we get to know them well enough to be able to identify any subtle changes in their behaviour. We must act immediately if we detect any abnormalities.
Any small changes in a rabbit’s behaviour could indicate a health problem, so it’s important to monitor them closely, and seek veterinary care without delay if anything seems abnormal.
Here is Bunnymad’s list of daily observations to make, with some examples of problems.
Rudimentary examinations of our rabbits should be conducted regularly at home. Many of these checks can be undertaken while rabbits are being brushed, rather than needing to pick them up, which can be stressful for them (you can find further information on grooming and handling rabbits towards the end of this page).
Always consult a vet as soon as rabbits show any signs of illness, injury, pain, or a change in their behaviour, before it develops into a more serious, potentially fatal problem.
Most rabbits have an innate fear of being picked up. In the wild, rabbits are only ‘handled’ when they’re about to be eaten. They are likely to struggle, especially if handled incorrectly, resulting in possible injury. Their bones are light (they’ve evolved to be fast), and they have delicate spines but powerful hind legs, meaning that if they kick out, their spine may break. They may also injure the person handling them.
Ideally, all care of rabbits should be conducted at ground level, to minimise stress and risk of injury. However, sometimes it is necessary to pick them up. When doing so, it’s best to approach them slowly and reassure them, rather than swooping down out of nowhere and scooping them up. Hold them firmly against your body, so they don’t struggle. They must NEVER be held by their ears, or by the scruff of their neck. When it’s time to put them back on the ground, lower them gently, still holding firmly – they tend to leap as soon as they realise they’re heading back to safety.
It’s common to see videos of people ‘trancing’ or ‘hypnotising’ their rabbits. These bunnies may appear to be relaxed on their backs and compliant, but in reality, they are immensely stressed in this position (studies have demonstrated this). Placing rabbits on their backs invokes a fear response, ‘tonic immobility’. They are pretending to be dead, a response to make a predator relax its grip so the rabbit can escape.
Grooming rabbits and trimming their nails
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Bunnies might not like being brushed, but it’s essential. |
It’s good practice to brush rabbits regularly – and more frequently during periods of heavy moulting (longer-haired breeds require extra attention). Wild rabbits moult at the end of winter and summer, but pet rabbits tend to moult almost constantly, as the temperature in an outdoor enclosure or a centrally heated home is more variable than that of a warren. The majority of our domestic rabbits have longer coats than their wild cousins, especially breeds such as angoras and lion-heads.
Rabbits will ingest fur as they groom, and this can cause their gut to slow down or stop, if there’s already something impeding their digestive system (see our page on Gut Stasis ). Regularly brushing rabbits to remove loose fur is an essential part of rabbit care, and bunnies with a longer coat need extra attention. We use the ‘Zoom Groom’ brush. Preference varies, but a bunny’s skin is very delicate, so it’s necessary to use a soft brush designed for rabbits. Many rabbits dislike being brushed, but it’s important to persevere – a sprinkling of treats in front of them may to distract them.
Long nails can increase pressure on feet, causing pododermatitis, can increase wear on joints, and can also be ripped off, injuring toes. The nails of indoor rabbits may need trimming more frequently, as they might not wear down as much as those kept on ground where they can dig, or on rougher surfaces. Nails should not extend beyond the fur on the foot (apart from rex rabbits, whose fur is shorter). They can be trimmed at home (see the RWAF’s useful guide ) but if you’re not confident in doing this, a vet should be consulted.
Wild rabbits do not bathe themselves in water – being fastidious groomers, it’s unnecessary, but also it would make them vulnerable, their fur would take a long time to dry, and wet fur brings a risk of hypothermia, respiratory infections, and flystrike. Naturally, pet rabbits also dislike being immersed in water, and tend to struggle, which adds a risk of injury.
If it does become necessary to clean your rabbit (for example, if they have a dirty rear end), then only wash the soiled area with warm water, and ensure it’s completely dry after cleaning. It’s best to have two people – one to hold the rabbit firmly, with just the affected area in the water, and the other to clean. The least stressful way is to use a small bowl or sink, with something on the base to provide traction (eg. towel), filled with warm water. A jug can be used to pour water carefully over the soiled area, and a soft cloth to gently cleanse. The rabbit needs to be dried thoroughly afterwards, using a warm towel. A hair dryer can be used, on the lowest setting, but keep your hand between the dryer and bunny to ensure it’s not hot. Even a slightly-damp rabbit must be kept indoors until completely dry.
Remember to consult a vet if a rabbit has a messy rear end – it’s crucial to determine and address the cause, as soiled fur increases their risk of flystrike.
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